Climbing Anchors, 3rd (How To Climb Series) Paperback Author: John Long | Language: English | ISBN:
0762782072 | Format: PDF, EPUB
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About the Author
John Long is the author of the best-selling How to Rock Climb!, the world's foremost book of climbing instruction, now in its fifth edition. He lives in Venice, California.
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- Series: How To Climb Series
- Paperback: 224 pages
- Publisher: FalconGuides; Third Edition, Third edition (July 2, 2013)
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 0762782072
- ISBN-13: 978-0762782079
- Product Dimensions: 9.1 x 7.4 x 0.5 inches
- Shipping Weight: 1.3 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Technology is always advancing. The world of climbing consisted of "crag men" and "alpinists" when I started. To say that we're a long way away from soft iron pins and hauser-laid nylon ropes is an understatement.
Today's tools to protect a climber are better engineered, startlingly lighter, and more versatile than five year old kit! Making safe and efficient use of today's tools involves a much steeper learning curve than at any previous time (that's why this book is on its third edition!).
Safe climbers will learn the ropes from other, more experienced, climbers - but, as so many of today's "sport climbers" began climbing indoors with well engineered safety systems and artificial holds - not everybody will have had the advantage of a mentor teaching them the mechanics of building bomb proof anchors. That's where this book and Craig Luebben's Rock Climbing Anchors become invaluable, required, additions to every climber's library.
This new edition is, as expected, up to date, including sections dealing with the uses and drawbacks of Aramid "tech cord" as well as nylon and dyneena/spectra ropes and slings. A detailed look at old bolts and bolt hangers is unique to this book and extremely timely material. Many 1/4" bolts and their hangers are found on standard routes and most, if not all, are traps for the unwary.
The use and placement of (at least) three pieces of bomber protection to craft Serene / Ernest belay anchors employing the cordelette or Web-O-Let equalization system is the heart of this book.
Having read the previous two editions and then given them to friends (sorry John, they never returned them!), I'm pleased to see the third edition has been updated with new gear and anecdotes, while continuing to be a great reference guide for climbing efficiently and safely.
Most importantly, Long strengthens the case for letting go of the idea that the cordelette is good for general purpose anchor-rigging, reinforcing that it should only be used in limited circumstances (specifically, only when the arms of the cordelette are the same length). He also clearly explains how to minimize loading on anchors, and how to tie in to anchors safely. This s*** is more than theoretical armchair advice...it will save your life one day, and you are better off learning the right way to do things early on, rather than after you've burned in a lot of bad behavior.
Climbing Anchors jumps right in to the subject matter and presupposes some basic rock climbing knowledge and vocabulary. This is an ideal book for intermediate climbers starting to lead multi-pitch routes, where you have to build an anchor instead of clipping a couple of bolts, although there is a lot of information on safely rigging and clipping bolted anchors and fixed protection as well. You'll learn a lot about equalizing load on pieces and building anchors that anticipate loading from multiple directions. Long will relentlessly drum into your head the importance of placing protection (the "Jesus Nut") ASAP after starting a pitch to protect you from falling directly on the anchor...because you only get one chance to get this right.
You will be surprised at how many assumptions you've made about redundancy and equalization that are likely mistaken...
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